This gamtae seaweed is even more beautiful. Wrapped around a bit of seasoned rice, with a tiny piece of raw tuna, a pickled carrot or some umaboshi, it makes a gorgeous snack.

If quarantine has you missing Korean cooking, you’ll want to know about the Gotham Grove site. It offers the most delicious roasted sesame oil I’ve yet to try, a spectacular perilla oil, various gochuchangs, aged soy sauces, exciting vinegars and the like. These day all sorts of sites are offering pre-made spice mixtures and sauces that promise to give your dishes a vaguely Asian flair. But if you have friends who really love Asian cooking, you could hardly do better than some of these super-premium condiments. I first learned about Gotham Grove from the wonderful chefs at Atomix, which is probably all I need to say. It’s one of the restaurants I’ve most missed over the past 8 months. (They’re open at the moment, but I’m not in The City.)

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